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 This is a good, but not great, printer.First, the positives:* It has a larger than average build surface of 255x255x 245mm.* It comes with a Titan dual-gear extruder (although it’s made of plastic). It worked very well with TPU on my test print.* It also has a form of rudimentary bed leveling system, although it’s not a true ABL. More of a bed leveling measurement system.* It is VERY easy to assemble, with only one ribbon cable, and one wire connector to hook up, and 4 bolts to insert and tighten. Took me maybe 10 minutes.* The control panel is a color touchscreen.* If you use the Tronxy-provided slicer, you get an image of your print on the screen.* The is a filament runout sensor.The negatives:* The Tronxy UI is confusing, at best, and the included manual did little to help out.* The SD card slot is in the back. Why would they do this?* The adjustment wheels for bed leveling are tiny.* Spring clips to hold the build surface to the heated bed are multi-colored. Just looks childish.* The bed springs are weak.* It seems the inlet to the extruder has an adaptor to allow for 2.85mm or 1.75mm filament, but whatever this black plastic cone is, it kept coming out whenever I changed filament. DON'T LOSE THIS!* They provided a flexible build plate and a greenish fiberglass plate, but didn’t say what to do with either of these. Turns out the fiberglas goes between the heated bed and the build surface, but I only learned this on the Tronxy FaceBook group.* There is no obvious way to adjust eSteps, zSteps, xSteps or ySteps. I believe you can if you flash Marlin into the machine.The filament roll holder is just a flat piece or metal. Not exactly smooth.Thoughts:The white elephant test print came out surprisingly well. I also printed out a blue TPU device to allow me to re-spool filament using a cordless drill, and I have to say, this is the best out-of-the-box TPU print I’ve ever done. I used the generic TPU (95A) material in Cura.I haven’t tried the Tronxy slicer, as I’m a long-time Cura user. Cura had a profile already available, and it worked well.This is a simple and elegant design, and for the money, it's a very good deal. I’m probably going to move to Marlin fairly quickly. I guess if I had never seen another printer I would learn the Tronxy UI, and it would be ok, but it seems too many things I need to do quickly aren’t obvious, and I need to get beyond learning the XY-2 and start using it ASAP.For the price, this is a good unit, and I recommend it. See the video and photo’s.

 Great machine for beginners. You can bolt it together level the bed and print. With some mods I am getting fantastic results with the xy2pro. Am even able to print flexible filament .
I always just ditch abl and add a z limit switch and glass bed to my printers but the abl feature did seam to work the 1 time I let it run. This type of sensor does not work reliably with a glass bed.

The machine showed signs of being tested at the factory( filament in hotend) which is very rare for a Chinese company.
The stock hotend cooler is less than optimal as it blows on the hotend also but just about any can duct for an ender 3 or x5s on thingiverse will work. Also print yourself some bigger knobs for the bed level screws and save the hasstle of the stock ones. The left rear is especially difficult to reach.

The chassis is all 20/40 and 40/40 extrusion and is very rigid. The rubber feet are quite stout too.

A very competent printer for the price point for sure with a few mods and very little money can be a great printer

There are also a few Facebook groups with fantastic members that can help out with any questions that may arrise

 Great machine for beginners. You can bolt it together level the bed and print. With some mods I am getting fantastic results with the xy2pro. Am even able to print flexible filament . I always just ditch abl and add a z limit switch and glass bed to my printers but the abl feature did seam to work the 1 time I let it run. This type of sensor does not work reliably with a glass bed. The machine showed signs of being tested at the factory( filament in hotend) which is very rare for a Chinese company. The stock hotend cooler is less than optimal as it blows on the hotend also but just about any can duct for an ender 3 or x5s on thingiverse will work. Also print yourself some bigger knobs for the bed level screws and save the hasstle of the stock ones. The left rear is especially difficult to reach.The chassis is all 20/40 and 40/40 extrusion and is very rigid. The rubber feet are quite stout too.A very competent printer for the price point for sure with a few mods and very little money can be a great printerThere are also a few Facebook groups with fantastic members that can help out with any questions that may arrise