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Customer Reviews (463)

  • US$ 357.23 US$ 664.00

    2021-11-28

    C****k

    I have been running this machine for a while now and it has been a decent work horse and makes great prints.The larger size allows me to make some prints I can not make with the average size printer and the quiet board means I don’t have to wear ear plugs all the time.Over all this machine is good for the experienced user who wants something that will get the job done.I see a lot of reviews from what appears to be people who have no idea how FDM printing works and expects everything to just work.Rarely is this the case for any printer.
  • US$ 538.20

    2021-11-21

    Ma****on

    I ordered this printer after hearing about the glass print bed (and the mounting clamps), metal linear rails, and the new z probe. I have wanted to get a larger printer and figured what the hay. I ordered it and it came quickly. The assembly was very straight forward with clear instructions with nice packaging so things are difficult to mess up. As with all 3d printers, the end results depend on your ability to build the printer square and level. I assumed that the printer would take a few days to build, but I was surprised when I was finished after a few hours. This is a great printer for the price.I think it is important to discuss what you are getting with this printer to be a fair review. This is a build it yourself printer with most of the board wiring done for you. First off for the price, I don't think you can build anything like this on your own (sourcing the parts). The linear rails are great! They are not hiwens but they work wonderfully and are a huge improvement over the rubber rollers found on other printers at a similar price point. The glass bed is nice, i am more used to printing on pei sheets, but now that I have tried the glass, I won't be going back.The only negative parts of this printer are the standard low cost printer things. These of course are: speed and power, extruder and hotend. Thus far, I have had zero issues with the hotend or extruder and the power and speed are acceptable for my needs.The touch screen interface is probably one of my favorite features of Tronxy printers. The reason for this is the bed leveling give you information on how your bed should be leveled. It is so much more intuitive that other leveling controls I have used-like klipper or marlin (great firmware, but not as intuitive as Tronxy's leveling). It has the functions of restart after power loss and filament sensor pausing, which although I don't care much for these features, they are great addition if you do long prints... and you will.Building: Be sure to make every plane parallel and perpendicular. Square and level are your friends-make sure these are a part of your build process and you shouldn't have any issues. Once you have everything built, ensure that the 2 sides of the bed are level on the z plane, by measuring the four corners to the frame. after that everything is easy sailing.Why a 5 star review? it is a great value for a 3d printer. Lets face it, when you get into 3d printing, you always are going to want to change something--Extruder not the best, bowden tube not the best, hot end not the best, and so on and so forth, you will change then and be happy with your upgrades... Its just how people who are into 3d printing are--always want improvements. With this printer, having all of the features it has, is an incredible value at the price. I would challenge anyone to find a better printer for the same cost that has the same features and capabilities. I bought this printer and I am happy with it. All that being said, I don't feel that this printer needs any upgrading.
  • US$ 357.23 US$ 664.00

    2021-11-21

    Ma****on

    I ordered this printer after hearing about the glass print bed (and the mounting clamps), metal linear rails, and the new z probe. I have wanted to get a larger printer and figured what the hay. I ordered it and it came quickly. The assembly was very straight forward with clear instructions with nice packaging so things are difficult to mess up. As with all 3d printers, the end results depend on your ability to build the printer square and level. I assumed that the printer would take a few days to build, but I was surprised when I was finished after a few hours. This is a great printer for the price.I think it is important to discuss what you are getting with this printer to be a fair review. This is a build it yourself printer with most of the board wiring done for you. First off for the price, I don't think you can build anything like this on your own (sourcing the parts). The linear rails are great! They are not hiwens but they work wonderfully and are a huge improvement over the rubber rollers found on other printers at a similar price point. The glass bed is nice, i am more used to printing on pei sheets, but now that I have tried the glass, I won't be going back.The only negative parts of this printer are the standard low cost printer things. These of course are: speed and power, extruder and hotend. Thus far, I have had zero issues with the hotend or extruder and the power and speed are acceptable for my needs.The touch screen interface is probably one of my favorite features of Tronxy printers. The reason for this is the bed leveling give you information on how your bed should be leveled. It is so much more intuitive that other leveling controls I have used-like klipper or marlin (great firmware, but not as intuitive as Tronxy's leveling). It has the functions of restart after power loss and filament sensor pausing, which although I don't care much for these features, they are great addition if you do long prints... and you will.Building: Be sure to make every plane parallel and perpendicular. Square and level are your friends-make sure these are a part of your build process and you shouldn't have any issues. Once you have everything built, ensure that the 2 sides of the bed are level on the z plane, by measuring the four corners to the frame. after that everything is easy sailing.Why a 5 star review? it is a great value for a 3d printer. Lets face it, when you get into 3d printing, you always are going to want to change something--Extruder not the best, bowden tube not the best, hot end not the best, and so on and so forth, you will change then and be happy with your upgrades... Its just how people who are into 3d printing are--always want improvements. With this printer, having all of the features it has, is an incredible value at the price. I would challenge anyone to find a better printer for the same cost that has the same features and capabilities. I bought this printer and I am happy with it. All that being said, I don't feel that this printer needs any upgrading.
  • US$ 278.57 US$ 445.00

    2021-11-12

    De****rt

    This was easier to assemble than I expected.
  • US$ 278.57 US$ 445.00

    2021-09-24

    B****n

    It's great! Things to do when you get it. Print some motor mounts to square the belts and a zsync bell tension and some belts. Official length for it would be a 1068mm I bought a 1140mm timing belt and just printed some tensioners for it. It came out great and both z axis motors are in sync now and don't have to tram before each print to get good leveling.
  • US$ 377.91 US$ 765.00

    2021-09-23

    @T****ce

    The TRONXY XY-3 SE performed incredibly well out of the box. I have been impressed with the overall build quality of the print. I'm yet to try the laser or the duel printing but the first impressions are great.
  • US$ 249.00 US$ 498.00

    2021-09-23

    @T****ce

    The TRONXY XY-3 SE performed incredibly well out of the box. I have been impressed with the overall build quality of the print. I'm yet to try the laser or the duel printing but the first impressions are great.
  • US$ 152.40
    ~
    US$ 254.00

    2021-08-29

    Pa****ck

    Had high hopes when this printer arrived, but it had a few issues. The bed plate was a few millimeters too low. I replaced the springs with the manufacturer recommended replacement which also failed to work. I ended up purchasing 25mm springs and that fixed everything.Printing quality is pretty good for standard PLA. There have been a few failures with adhesion every so often which makes it difficult to determine the cause. The dual filament feature is nice and works without much issue.One downside is the size of the bed. Since its an usual size, its hard to find many choices for a metal plate or 3rd party suppliers.
  • US$ 278.57 US$ 445.00

    2021-08-24

    L****y

    I am thrilled with this printer and honestly I didn't expect it to be so great.Everything was well packaged and easy to assemble and level with the help of instruction manually. I was able to set it up and level it up in less than an hour. Also the printer speed is really good. Its my 4th different printer order and so far it is the best one.I really recommend this printer if you are looking for great printer in affordable price.
  • US$ 278.57 US$ 445.00

    2021-08-16

    M****O

    ANYCUBIC CHIRONが2か月で壊れたので部品が来るまでの代替機として購入。 (スピードを120㎜/sにしたらマザーボードが壊れた)他のレビューで言われている通りの不具合が・・・。1.ビルドプラットフォームのガラスが歪んでいる(中心部が盛り上がっている) このせいで外周付近はノズルギャップが倍くらいになって1層目が定着しない。2.Z軸を2個のステッピングモーターで上下させているが同期機構がない。 電源切ってステッピングモーターがフリーになると自重でずり下がり、 その下がり方が左右で違うので毎回レベルが狂ってしまう。 ※ANYCUBIC CHIRONは左右個別に下限センサーを付けてあり、  毎回印刷前に一度下限を確認して左右の同期をとっているのでずれない。1については「ANYCUBIC CHIRON Ultrabase 3Dプリンター ビルドプラットフォーム」を購入してガラスだけをこちらに流用、少しサイズが大きいが問題なく使用できました。2については「TRONXY X5SA / X5SA PRO / -2E Z軸GT2タイミングベルトプーリー・キット」を購入して組付けて左右の同期をとりました。これは海外では当たり前の改造のようで、その手の海外サイトにいっぱい出てました。アマゾンでも売ってますが、海外通販なら¥1000~¥1500で売ってます。2点の改造の結果、とても良いプリンターに化けました。ANYCUBIC CHIRONより静かで高速印刷ができます。造形精度もこちらが上です。(ダイレクトエクストルーダー化して、スピードを120㎜/sでも普通に動いてます)いじらず普通に使うならANYCUBIC CHIRON、改造前提ならX5SA-400 PROがいいと思います。[ANYCUBIC CHIRON Ultrabase 3Dプリンター ビルドプラットフォーム]https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B07NSN725H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[TRONXY X5SA / X5SA PRO / -2E Z軸GT2タイミングベルトプーリー・キット]https://www.amazon.co.jp/Liupin-Store-TRONXY-3D%E3%83%97%E3%83%AA%E3%83%B3%E3%82%BF%E3%83%BC%E9%83%A8%E5%93%81%E3%81%AE%E3%81%9F%E3%82%81%E3%81%AEZ%E8%BB%B8GT2%E3%82%BF%E3%82%A4%E3%83%9F%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0%E3%83%99%E3%83%AB%E3%83%88%E3%83%97%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%83%BB%E3%82%AD%E3%83%83%E3%83%8824%E6%AD%AF%E5%90%8C%E6%9C%9F%E3%83%9B%E3%82%A4%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%81%A81068mm%E3%83%99%E3%83%AB%E3%83%88%E3%83%95%E3%82%A3%E3%83%83%E3%83%88-%E3%82%A4%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B9%E3%83%88%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AB%E3%81%8C%E7%B0%A1%E5%8D%98/dp/B099FFW5WS/ref=sr_1_14?__mk_ja_JP=%E3%82%AB%E3%82%BF%E3%82%AB%E3%83%8A&dchild=1&keywords=Z%E8%BB%B8%2Bgt2%2B%E3%82%BF%E3%82%A4%E3%83%9F%E3%83%B3%E3%82%B0%E3%83%99%E3%83%AB%E3%83%88%2B%E3%83%97%E3%83%BC%E3%83%AA%E3%83%BC%E3%82%AD%E3%83%83%E3%83%88%2B24%E6%AD%AF&qid=1629079865&sr=8-14&th=1
  • US$ 538.20

    2021-08-13

    An****ny

    This printer was a blast to put together. Instructions were ok but it was good to watch a few videos for tips on installation. My first print came out excellent as seen in the picture.
  • US$ 357.23 US$ 664.00

    2021-08-13

    An****ny

    This printer was a blast to put together. Instructions were ok but it was good to watch a few videos for tips on installation. My first print came out excellent as seen in the picture.
  • US$ 357.23 US$ 664.00

    2021-08-13

    A****y

    This printer was a blast to put together. Instructions were ok but it was good to watch a few videos for tips on installation. My first print came out excellent as seen in the picture.
  • US$ 538.20

    2021-08-13

    A****y

    This printer was a blast to put together. Instructions were ok but it was good to watch a few videos for tips on installation. My first print came out excellent as seen in the picture.
  • US$ 278.57 US$ 445.00

    2021-08-10

    M****K

    ok
  • US$ 249.00 US$ 498.00

    2021-07-29

    Ni****00

    This is not my first 3D printer, I bought my first one about 3 years ago and have had several since then. However I have to say this is the best one I've had to date. Initial impressions were how well specified this printer is for the price being asked and whether maybe to include so many different options maybe some corners had been cut to keep the price down. But to date I have to say my experience is totally the opposite as I've found the printer to be stunningly good and a very good performer.When first opening the rather large box it comes in it is a little overwhelming as there seems to be loads of items and you assume there is a lengthy build ahead of you. However this couldn't be further from the truth. In reality when you first assemble the printer there are literally only 12 bolts to worry about. This is because the main components come fully assembled. There is the base unit that contains all the electronics, power supply, touch screen, heated bed etc... and the gantry assembly which contains the vertical motors (two), and the horizontal bar which carries the hot end assembly. All you need to do is place the gantry assembly vertically on the base unit and fasten the bottom of the uprights to the side of the base unit using 4 screws on each side. These actually do fasten into the sides of the base so there's even no need to go balancing the base on its side while fitting the gantry unlike all over printers I've assembled. There are then a further two bolts on the spool holder which attaches to the gantry.Once this is complete there are only 3 cable connections to be made, one small lead with plug (keyed) on each side that plug into the vertical 'z-axis' stepper motors on each side of the gantry and a single ribbon cable that feeds from the base unit to a connector on the left of the gantry where the extruder stepper motor is found. The latter contains all the leads required to support the stepper motor, filament run out sensor, hot end and fan assemblies. The last things to add are the spool holder which fits to the gantry upright and the glass bed which sits on the heated bed and is fastened in place with 4 screw clips, another innovation I've not seen elsewhere but very neat. I should also add the glass bed also has a special coating on its surface that helps with adhesion, just remember to let the bed cool before trying to remove your prints or you'll likely damage the coating.Power plugs into the rear of the base unit and you are effectively ready to calibrate the printer and go. However be aware that there is a voltage selector on the left side of the base unit (when viewed from the front) that sets the mains voltage to either 240v or 110v, this should be set to 240v for the UK, be sure to check this as on my printer this was set to the USA standard of 110v. Get this wrong and you will at least blow a fuse, but may cause far more damage if unlucky.At this point you can power the printer on and it should beep and present you with a basic menu after it has gone through its startup routine. Once this is complete you get to 'level' the bed. This is something that strikes fear into a lot of people and indeed can be the difference between getting prints to stick to the bed well or having failed prints due to them coming loose. To carry out the bed levelling I would suggest the following steps, this is slightly more than suggested in the manual but worked perfectly flawlessly for me;1. Go into the tools menu and select levelling then the manual option. Then using the menu options select each corner to level, this will move the print head to the relevant corner and lower it to the default level of the printer. You should then insert a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the bed and while turning the screw wheel below that corner of the bed move the sheet of paper back and forth, turning the wheel to the right will lower the bed, to the left will raise the bed, once you feel a small amount of resistance on the paper stop and move to the next corner. It is sometimes worth going round the cor
  • US$ 377.91 US$ 765.00

    2021-07-29

    Ni****00

    This is not my first 3D printer, I bought my first one about 3 years ago and have had several since then. However I have to say this is the best one I've had to date. Initial impressions were how well specified this printer is for the price being asked and whether maybe to include so many different options maybe some corners had been cut to keep the price down. But to date I have to say my experience is totally the opposite as I've found the printer to be stunningly good and a very good performer.When first opening the rather large box it comes in it is a little overwhelming as there seems to be loads of items and you assume there is a lengthy build ahead of you. However this couldn't be further from the truth. In reality when you first assemble the printer there are literally only 12 bolts to worry about. This is because the main components come fully assembled. There is the base unit that contains all the electronics, power supply, touch screen, heated bed etc... and the gantry assembly which contains the vertical motors (two), and the horizontal bar which carries the hot end assembly. All you need to do is place the gantry assembly vertically on the base unit and fasten the bottom of the uprights to the side of the base unit using 4 screws on each side. These actually do fasten into the sides of the base so there's even no need to go balancing the base on its side while fitting the gantry unlike all over printers I've assembled. There are then a further two bolts on the spool holder which attaches to the gantry.Once this is complete there are only 3 cable connections to be made, one small lead with plug (keyed) on each side that plug into the vertical 'z-axis' stepper motors on each side of the gantry and a single ribbon cable that feeds from the base unit to a connector on the left of the gantry where the extruder stepper motor is found. The latter contains all the leads required to support the stepper motor, filament run out sensor, hot end and fan assemblies. The last things to add are the spool holder which fits to the gantry upright and the glass bed which sits on the heated bed and is fastened in place with 4 screw clips, another innovation I've not seen elsewhere but very neat. I should also add the glass bed also has a special coating on its surface that helps with adhesion, just remember to let the bed cool before trying to remove your prints or you'll likely damage the coating.Power plugs into the rear of the base unit and you are effectively ready to calibrate the printer and go. However be aware that there is a voltage selector on the left side of the base unit (when viewed from the front) that sets the mains voltage to either 240v or 110v, this should be set to 240v for the UK, be sure to check this as on my printer this was set to the USA standard of 110v. Get this wrong and you will at least blow a fuse, but may cause far more damage if unlucky.At this point you can power the printer on and it should beep and present you with a basic menu after it has gone through its startup routine. Once this is complete you get to 'level' the bed. This is something that strikes fear into a lot of people and indeed can be the difference between getting prints to stick to the bed well or having failed prints due to them coming loose. To carry out the bed levelling I would suggest the following steps, this is slightly more than suggested in the manual but worked perfectly flawlessly for me;1. Go into the tools menu and select levelling then the manual option. Then using the menu options select each corner to level, this will move the print head to the relevant corner and lower it to the default level of the printer. You should then insert a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the bed and while turning the screw wheel below that corner of the bed move the sheet of paper back and forth, turning the wheel to the right will lower the bed, to the left will raise the bed, once you feel a small amount of resistance on the paper stop and move to the next corner. It is sometimes worth going round the cor
  • US$ 249.00 US$ 498.00

    2021-07-29

    Ni****00

    This is not my first 3D printer, I bought my first one about 3 years ago and have had several since then. However I have to say this is the best one I've had to date. Initial impressions were how well specified this printer is for the price being asked and whether maybe to include so many different options maybe some corners had been cut to keep the price down. But to date I have to say my experience is totally the opposite as I've found the printer to be stunningly good and a very good performer.When first opening the rather large box it comes in it is a little overwhelming as there seems to be loads of items and you assume there is a lengthy build ahead of you. However this couldn't be further from the truth. In reality when you first assemble the printer there are literally only 12 bolts to worry about. This is because the main components come fully assembled. There is the base unit that contains all the electronics, power supply, touch screen, heated bed etc... and the gantry assembly which contains the vertical motors (two), and the horizontal bar which carries the hot end assembly. All you need to do is place the gantry assembly vertically on the base unit and fasten the bottom of the uprights to the side of the base unit using 4 screws on each side. These actually do fasten into the sides of the base so there's even no need to go balancing the base on its side while fitting the gantry unlike all over printers I've assembled. There are then a further two bolts on the spool holder which attaches to the gantry.Once this is complete there are only 3 cable connections to be made, one small lead with plug (keyed) on each side that plug into the vertical 'z-axis' stepper motors on each side of the gantry and a single ribbon cable that feeds from the base unit to a connector on the left of the gantry where the extruder stepper motor is found. The latter contains all the leads required to support the stepper motor, filament run out sensor, hot end and fan assemblies. The last things to add are the spool holder which fits to the gantry upright and the glass bed which sits on the heated bed and is fastened in place with 4 screw clips, another innovation I've not seen elsewhere but very neat. I should also add the glass bed also has a special coating on its surface that helps with adhesion, just remember to let the bed cool before trying to remove your prints or you'll likely damage the coating.Power plugs into the rear of the base unit and you are effectively ready to calibrate the printer and go. However be aware that there is a voltage selector on the left side of the base unit (when viewed from the front) that sets the mains voltage to either 240v or 110v, this should be set to 240v for the UK, be sure to check this as on my printer this was set to the USA standard of 110v. Get this wrong and you will at least blow a fuse, but may cause far more damage if unlucky.At this point you can power the printer on and it should beep and present you with a basic menu after it has gone through its startup routine. Once this is complete you get to 'level' the bed. This is something that strikes fear into a lot of people and indeed can be the difference between getting prints to stick to the bed well or having failed prints due to them coming loose. To carry out the bed levelling I would suggest the following steps, this is slightly more than suggested in the manual but worked perfectly flawlessly for me;1. Go into the tools menu and select levelling then the manual option. Then using the menu options select each corner to level, this will move the print head to the relevant corner and lower it to the default level of the printer. You should then insert a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the bed and while turning the screw wheel below that corner of the bed move the sheet of paper back and forth, turning the wheel to the right will lower the bed, to the left will raise the bed, once you feel a small amount of resistance on the paper stop and move to the next corner. It is sometimes worth going round the cor
  • US$ 152.40
    ~
    US$ 254.00

    2021-07-28

    De****ki

    Your browser does not support HTML5 video.  This is a good, but not great, printer.First, the positives:* It has a larger than average build surface of 255x255x 245mm.* It comes with a Titan dual-gear extruder (although it’s made of plastic). It worked very well with TPU on my test print.* It also has a form of rudimentary bed leveling system, although it’s not a true ABL. More of a bed leveling measurement system.* It is VERY easy to assemble, with only one ribbon cable, and one wire connector to hook up, and 4 bolts to insert and tighten. Took me maybe 10 minutes.* The control panel is a color touchscreen.* If you use the Tronxy-provided slicer, you get an image of your print on the screen.* The is a filament runout sensor.The negatives:* The Tronxy UI is confusing, at best, and the included manual did little to help out.* The SD card slot is in the back. Why would they do this?* The adjustment wheels for bed leveling are tiny.* Spring clips to hold the build surface to the heated bed are multi-colored. Just looks childish.* The bed springs are weak.* It seems the inlet to the extruder has an adaptor to allow for 2.85mm or 1.75mm filament, but whatever this black plastic cone is, it kept coming out whenever I changed filament. DON'T LOSE THIS!* They provided a flexible build plate and a greenish fiberglass plate, but didn’t say what to do with either of these. Turns out the fiberglas goes between the heated bed and the build surface, but I only learned this on the Tronxy FaceBook group.* There is no obvious way to adjust eSteps, zSteps, xSteps or ySteps. I believe you can if you flash Marlin into the machine.The filament roll holder is just a flat piece or metal. Not exactly smooth.Thoughts:The white elephant test print came out surprisingly well. I also printed out a blue TPU device to allow me to re-spool filament using a cordless drill, and I have to say, this is the best out-of-the-box TPU print I’ve ever done. I used the generic TPU (95A) material in Cura.I haven’t tried the Tronxy slicer, as I’m a long-time Cura user. Cura had a profile already available, and it worked well.This is a simple and elegant design, and for the money, it's a very good deal. I’m probably going to move to Marlin fairly quickly. I guess if I had never seen another printer I would learn the Tronxy UI, and it would be ok, but it seems too many things I need to do quickly aren’t obvious, and I need to get beyond learning the XY-2 and start using it ASAP.For the price, this is a good unit, and I recommend it. See the video and photo’s.
  • US$ 152.40
    ~
    US$ 254.00

    2021-07-19

    Ke****er

    This is my 2nd Tronxy XY-2Pro Titan. Grabbed this one on a lightning deal and couldn't be happier. Very solid machine. Will do a few upgrades but nothing crazy.
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